Niʻihau Lei Making: The Art of Shell Lei (Lei Pūpū Niʻihau)
Niʻihau lei making is a highly specialized and treasured Hawaiian tradition, unique to the island of Niʻihau. Unlike most Hawaiian leis, which are made from flowers, Niʻihau leis are crafted using rare and valuable shells, making them some of the most sought-after and expensive leis in the world.
1. The Unique Niʻihau Shells
The shells used in Niʻihau leis are called pūpū (shells) and are found exclusively on the shores of Niʻihau and parts of Kauaʻi. These shells are meticulously handpicked, cleaned, sorted, and strung to create intricate patterns.
Types of Niʻihau Shells:
• Kahelelani – The smallest and most valuable, found in colors like white, pink, red, yellow, and brown.
• Momi – Smooth, rounded shells, usually white, beige, or golden.
• Laiki (Rice Shells) – Tiny, rice-shaped shells often used as accents.
• Kāmoa – A rarer type of shell, usually brownish or golden.
The color, luster, and rarity of the shells determine the value of the lei. Some shells are so rare that a single lei can take years to complete.
2. The Process of Lei Making
Step 1: Gathering Shells
• Niʻihau residents carefully collect the shells by hand along the island’s beaches.
• Shells are only collected when they naturally wash ashore, ensuring sustainability.
Step 2: Cleaning and Sorting
• Shells are soaked, cleaned, and sorted by size, shape, and color.
• Only the highest-quality shells are selected for the lei.
Step 3: Drilling and Stringing
• Each shell is hand-drilled using traditional techniques, often with a fine needle.
• Shells are strung in intricate patterns, using different styles such as:
• Heli (Twisted)
• Poepoe (Round)
• Pikake (Resembling Jasmine Buds)
• Wili (Spiraled)
3. Cultural and Economic Importance
• Cultural Significance: Lei pūpū Niʻihau are considered sacred and prestigious in Hawaiian culture, often worn at special ceremonies, weddings, and hula performances.
• Economic Livelihood: Lei-making is a primary source of income for many Niʻihau residents, as the island has limited resources and tourism is restricted.
• Legal Protection: Under Hawaiian law, a lei can only be called an authentic “Niʻihau shell lei” if 100% of the shells are from Niʻihau and the lei is strung in the traditional way by Niʻihau artisans.
4. Value and Rarity
• Because of their rarity and craftsmanship, authentic Niʻihau shell leis can sell for thousands of dollars.
• Museums, collectors, and Hawaiian cultural institutions highly prize these leis.
• Many Niʻihau leis are heirlooms, passed down for generations.
Conclusion
Niʻihau shell lei making is more than just an art—it is a sacred cultural practice that reflects the island’s deep connection to the land and the ocean. These one-of-a-kind treasures continue to preserve Hawaiian traditions and provide a sustainable livelihood for the people of Niʻihau.